ON TOP OF WORLD'S SEVENTH HIGHEST MOUNTAIN DHAULAGIRI (8167m)
On 19th May another expedition team from Giripremi reached to the top of Mt. Dhaulagiri. The Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River north of Pokhra. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level. This feat marked the Giripremi's 5th successful ascent of the eight thousander in a row. The summit bid started on 12th May from basecamp. From base camp, they followed a gully to the side of an icefall. This is fixed with rope and is one of the steeper sections of the climb as well as being one of the most dangerous. They reached Camp 1 (5,850m) which is situated at the top of the Icefall on a broad col. On 13th the team started from Camp1. Camp 2 (6,400m) is on a small, flat area below an ice cliff on the eastern aspect of the NE Spur itself. On 14th May they started from Camp2 towards camp3. The route above Camp 2 was steep for 500 metres to reach Camp 3, which is located on a rocky ledge at 7,400m. On 14th May the team started the final summit attempt from Camp3 at 11.00pm. They followed the NE ridge to reach a steep couloir that leads to the summit. This being the first attempt of the season the team had to open the route and fix the ropes above Camp3. This took them longer than expected to reach the summit. By the time the strong wind started blowing and pushed the team back from just 200M below the summit. It was a big setback. The team launched another summit assault on 18th May. But the wind was so strong that they had to abandon the summit attempt and return to the summit camp within an hour. By 19th May because of the prolonged exposure to the death zone everyone had to return to the basecamp except for Everester Prasad Joshi. In the adverse situation Prasad displayed tremendous courage and the mental strength and decided to attempt summit once more. Finally on 19th May at 11.00am he celebrated the fourth anniversary of his Everest climb by standing on top of this seventh highest mountain. Undoubted an extraordinary achievement in the field of mountaineering; considering the fact that he did it after two unsuccessful attempts without coming down to the lower camps. Team: Everester Prasad Joshi, Everester Ashish Mane, Akshay Patke, Pawan Hadole Sherpa: Dorji Sherpa, Fu Dorji Sherpa, Ming Temba, Tenzen Sherpa
7th May: Team returned Base Camp after spending night at Camp-2 This has been pretty long to hear the news from Dhaulagiri. And yes there is a good news from heights. All 4 members have returned to base camp safely after spending a night at Camp-2 which is at 6600 meters. Earlier, team was stuck at Base Camp for about a week's time due to the continuous bad weather. This was the acclimatization rotation according to the climbing schedule. The route opening for Camp-3 is in progress. Now another 4 days rest and team will head for the summit attempt.
27th April: Team reached Camp 1 @5700 m Yesterday on 26th, all four members Ashish, Prasad, Akshay and Pawan got up early in the morning and left Base Camp at 0630 hrs for Camp 1. After walking for about 2 hours they had to tackle a near vertical Ice wall of about 30 meters, which consumed lot of their time and energy. After that it was a gradual climb for about 4 hours and finally at 1300 hrs, team reached Camp 1 situated at 5700 m. The plan was to stay at Camp 1 and today they were supposed to climb up to Camp 2 and come back to Camp 1 for stay and then return to base camp. The weather was good but the route till camp 2 was not opened until noon today so they could not reach Camp 2 today. Now the team is back at Camp 1 and all are fit and fine. They will climb down to Base Camp tomorrow and then wait for the next rotation in mountains.
23rd April 2016: Camp 1 Established After the Pooja ceremony of Base Camp was over on 20th April, team followed the acclimatization schedule for next two days. They climbed about 500 meters towards the 'French Col' situated to the north of Base Camp. On 22nd April, team's Sherpa sirdar Dorchi sherpa and his team successfully established Camp 1 at the height of 5850m. This morning team started climbing towards Camp 1 and went up to 5140 m, at the area called 'Depository Camp' and returned to the base camp. They had to tackle the hurdle of about 30 meter near vertical Ice wall and then the walk was similar to western cwm of Mt. Everest. After the continuous activity of 3 days, now they will stay at Base Camp for 2 days and then move to Camp 1. If the weather permits then team has a plan to reach till camp 2 at 6400 m and then come back to base camp.
18th April 2016: Team reaches Base Camp Team has reached the Base Camp of the expedition. Giripremi's base camp is established and the location of the base camp is quite good. The beginning of the climbing route resembles to the Khumbu Ice fall of Mt. Everest. Team will have to go through this mini Khumbu to set up Camp 1. The Base camp pooja is scheduled in next couple of days and the team is acclimatizing on the surrounding hills. All the members are fit and fine and awaiting the Pooja to be over so that they can start actual climbing.
12th April Yeterday, team trekked from Bagar to Dobhan, which was about 5 hours gradual walk. the destination for the day was Dobhan at (2500m). Today early morning, team started their trek for Italian Base Camp (3600 m), which was approximately 6 hours of pleasant walk. Team reached the destination at 2.30 pm. They will stay at Italian BC for 2 nights before moving to the actual expedition Base Camp.
11th April It was a pleasent stay at Shibang on 1750 m from sea level. Today's trek started from Shibang early morning after 4 hours of walking, team reached Lukapani and halted there for a cup of tea. Moving on from Lukapani, it took another 4 hours to reach today's destination which is Bagar at 1880 m. The trek route was up and down along the river Kali Gandaki where team had to cross some rickety bridges on the way.
10th April: Team's yesterday halt was at Shibang. Yesterday, They started from Pokhara at 6 am towards Shibang. Its journey of around 6 hours.. the route was via Nayapool. They reached Beni at around 9 am and then immediately started towards Shibang. The road till Beni was good. Major road was tar road and some was raw. But after Beni it was totally raw road going through vally. The route followed Kaligandaki river and after travel of 2.00 hours, team reached Darbang at 11 am. There was a check post where entry for Expedition was made and they started towards Shibang. They reached Shibang at 1 pm. Height of Shibang is 1750m.
9th April: With all the preparations made and with the best wishes and blessings from all family members and well wishers, Mt. Dhaulagiri Team made their move from Kathmandu on this Friday, 8th Apri on the occasion of GudhiPadwa. They will be travelling by road to the village of Beni. They had a night halt at Pokhara on the way. They should be reaching Beni today. This morning, just 10 km before Beni, at an acute turn, team had a magnificently beautiful view of Mt. Dhaulagiri and nobody could resist getting down the jeep and taking pictures.
7th April: Team met Indian Ambassador to Nepal before the departure for expedition on 6th April. Today early morning all of them went to the famous Pashupatinath Temple and offered prayers to Lord Shiva. Then they visited the senior Lama's place and took blessings for the safe and successful expedition to Mt. Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu. Tomorrow, on the auspicious occasion of Gudhipadwa, the team Dhaulagiri will march from Kathmandu.
5th April 2016: Preparations in Kathmandu are in full swing. Personal clothing, climbing gear, Food everything need to be packed so meticulously that even 24 hours are not enough. While doing all this packing, there are always other priorities to be addressed. Before leaving for expedition, team took an opportunity to meet Nepal's Honorable Tourism Minister Shri. Anand Prasad Pokhrel and received best wishes from him. "Your achievements and initiative to promote mountaineering is commendable. We are proud that so many Indians are inspired by Giripremi to visit Nepal for various treks" he praised the team on this occasion. Tomorrow, the team will visit the Indian Ambessy in Kathmandu to receive the Flag for expedition.
4th April 2016: Giripremi Team members have reached Kathmandu and will spend some days in preparations.. This morning, the team was fortunate to meet the Legendary mountaineer Edmund Viesturs, the only fifth person of the world who has climbed all 14 Eight Thousanders without using supplementary oxygen. After meeting this exceptional and inspirational personality, team will be preparing for the departure of Mt. Dhaulagiri team's departure, which is scheduled on 8th April 2016, on the auspicious day of 'Gudhipadwa'!!
1st April 2016: Giripremi's Mt. Dhaulagiri Cho Oyu expedition team received the warm wishes from all the club and family members in a cheerful atmosphere. The programme was held at Giripremi Office in presence of Giripremi's mentors Mr. Manish Sabade, Mr. C. K. Joshi, Mr. Santosh Lalwani, senior mountaineers like Smt. Ushaprabha Page, Shri. Anand Palande and all the club members. The team members will be leaving for Kathmandu on 2nd April.
Mountaineering is an extreme sport. It's play grounds are far from the civilization. It demands high quality equipment for safety and survival. It's probably the sport which has longest time frame. Generally, an expedition continues for several days and sometime months. All these factors impose a burden off high costs on this sport.
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