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Giripremi’s Mt. Hanuman Tibba Expedition

Placed to the north of Manali and at the western side of the Beas river is small and beautiful peak is Mt. Hanuman Tibba, The Dome of Hanuman is a pyramid shaped mountain rising to the height of 5932 meters. This captivating mountain has giant north face, flutter walls, rocky cliffs and icy faces.

Mt. Hanuman Tibba, also known as Solang Weissorn, was first scaled in 1912 (exactly a century ago) by Gen C .G Bruce’s chief swiss guide – Henrich Fuhrer and a gurkha soldier Lal Bahadur. This party and their english employers also made the first exploratory ventures towards Indrasan ( then nameless ) and Deo Tibba. Mt. Hanuman Tibba was not climbed again until 1966 (Joint Indo -British expedition under R.G Petigrew.)

mt-hanuman

The traditional route of Mt. Hanuman Tibba is from Solang Nullah. The Beas Kund (3540 meters) is the best place for the Base Camp of Expedition. From here one can clearly see the next tough route of Tentu Pass ( 4996 meters). The next camp is usually sets up in the Tentu Pass.

The Tentu Pass is the mixture of snow, ice and rock with the gradient up to 75° to 80°, which makes the climb difficult and exhaustive. After Tentu Pass a traverse to the mountain leads us from North – West ridge to South – East ridge. During this traverse climber has to face lots of crevasses in the glacier. At the end of traverse just before the South – East ridge we will set up our summit camp.

The last phase of climb is from Summit Camp to summit which includes the climb of South- West face which later meets the South- West ridge and finally summit.

Day-wise Schedule

Day Activity Stay Mountain Day
01 Leave Pune on on 16th June @ 5.30 pm
02 Arrival @ Delhi, leave for Manali
03 Arrival In Manali around 4 pm
04 Height gaining near Hamta Pass, Packing and shopping in Manali Manali
05 Height gaining above the height gained previous day, shopping & Packing Manali
06 Height Gaining to Mt. Patalsu Manali
07 Move to Dhundi by vehicle, trek to Beas Kund with LAP BC 01
08 Height gaining to Mt. Shitidhar, HAP- Load ferry to Intermediate Camp(IC) BC 02
09 Shift to IC IC 03
10 Shift to C1 C1 04
11 Shift to C2 C2 05
12 Summit Attempt-1 C2 06
13 Summit Attempt-2, Return to C1 C1 07
14 Return to BC BC 08
15 Wind up BC 09
16 Trek to Dhundi, travel to Manali Manali
17 Travel to Delhi
18 Arrival at Delhi & Return to Pune
19 Arrival in Pune

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Mountaineering is an extreme sport. It's play grounds are far from the civilization. It demands high quality equipment for safety and survival. It's probably the sport which has longest time frame. Generally, an expedition continues for several days and sometime months. All these factors impose a burden off high costs on this sport.

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